Wednesday, 19 November 2014

Adding a real coal load to a tender and other bits and bobs

Finally i have been meaning to get this blog post of adding a real coal load into a tender done and now i have done just that as i have been meaning to use the pics from my phone (that i used to take them) for a while. I also throw in some other bits and bobs in too.

The locomotive as seen in the images is the Bachmann LMS Maroon livery Crab (a stunning model as seen in my review).

First i began adding the details supplied in a pack mainly the drain cocks, footsteps and brake pipes i used poly cement and PVA glue to glue them into place. Poly cement for the drain cocks and brake pipes whilst PVA was used for the footsteps. I used a loco cradle to keep the loco turned upside down in the case the cradle was made out of sponges.

Then i moved onto adding the real coal load into the tender reason i added the detail first is because it would be easier and it would save me having to do it later on.

After gluing down the coal rail with PVA i took a small brush and spreaded some PVA on the inside of the tender. Now one or two people have criticized this method i use saying its fixed permanently and not removable by bluing it onto ply wood. Okay firstly the whole point of a permanent coal load is by gluing it into the tender not getting ply wood and gluing it onto that to make it removable.

Simple fact is firstly you will need to cut the ply wood to size so it fits perfectly into the tender plus you will have to glue the coal onto the plywood and then put it into the tender but you would have to make sure the right amount of coal is added so it can fit in. I have been to model railway exhibitions and before i began adding coal loads into tenders i have asked people how they do it and they have done it exactly the same way i do it plus i saw an article in a Hornby mag showing someone adding a coal load into a tender using PVA. Why would you want to make a real coal load removable? The plastic coal is removable so you can add your own load in but why make it removable? I do things my way bot what other people try and suggest what they do because what i am doing is the best option and i couldn't give two hoots if people criticized it this is how i do things and i wish some people would learn tat.

Next i added the real coal load in by scattering it on by grabbing some into the palm of my hands and sprinkling it on. The coal used is by Javis country scenics and the coal is crushed down to a much more accurate scale and size as opposed to just banging in large lumps of crushed up coal.

Then i get some treated PVA glue (liquidized form using PVA, water and washing up liquid) and just gently drop it n careful not to add too much though. I then wait for it to set and it dries and it stays firm.

Now with that out the way i'll throw in a few extra things

Now i will talk about transfers in this case cabside transfers from Fox Transfers. They are excellent to say the least and they are highly recommended by me especially as these were only ordered the day before i wrote this blog and have arrived on the day i am typing this up. Hows about that for quick service.

I bought the cab side numerals for my Bachmann A1 60134 Foxhunter which originally was 60157 Great Eastern but was renamed and renumbered by me which was the first time i did it (being a few years ago) and it turned out well although i used the wrong type and style of numerals for the cab but thankfully the new ones i ordered were the right and correct ones and now make the modle not only much better but more realistic as compared to the real ones.

I removed the original ones using my thumbnail which scrapped them off i didn't expect it to work but surprisingly it did.

I cut out the transfes using scissors and got a dish of warm water with a drop of washing up  liquid as they now recommend you do that. It has no major affect on the transfers but it does work well to say the least. I left them in for a few minutes before using tweezers to pick them out then i used a cocktail stick to slide them off and correctly position them once all applied i added gloss cote. Then after adding the brass work plates back on the cab sides the model now looks 100 times better and is now ready to go back to where the layout is ready for its next turn of duty on the layout.

And one other thing i received this today. To anyone who has donated to Chris Eden- Green's SLIPS DVD campaign and donated £5 they would have received one of these postcards. I received mine today and i have now got it hanging on my wall.

Thats all for now..... and on that bombshell i shall see you next time

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